Best Beach: Brighton, England
Background
When I first moved to England, my husband and I spent a week in Brighton. We wanted to get over jet lag, unwind from the stress of packing up our whole lives, and try to mentally adjust to the fact that we had just made an international move. We stayed at Motel Smotel, a wonderful bed and breakfast close to the beach, and had a great time exploring the town. Now, we try to return for day trips whenever we visit London.
The history of Brighton dates back to the Stone Age. Fast forward to the 1750s, Brighton became a fashionable seaside resort where folks went for the healing seawater. The expansion of the railroad in the Victorian period made Brighton accessible to day-trippers. The addition of a pleasure pier in the 20th century made it even more attractive.
Lobster Roll
There are a lot of great places to eat in Brighton - from seafood to vegan to traditional British to Asian and more. I had walked past this The Brighton Shellfish and Oyster Bar several times before and finally stopped to try it this time. It’s a no-fuss seafood shack that serves cold rolls or cold seafood. I opted for the lobster roll while my husband got a prawn and crab roll. Under $10 for fresh and local-ish (from Norfolk) lobster is a steal. My kiddo wanted a bacon roll from the smokehouse next door, so if not everyone in your party fancies seafood there are nearby options. Brighton Shellfish also has tables right on the pebbled beach!
Brighton Palace Pier
The long, boardwalk pier was opened in 1889. Now, you can find arcade games, restaurants, shops, and a few rides. My 8yo enjoyed the “dodge ‘ems” (bumper cars). At around $2, the Helter Skelter (slide) is a great view of the beach from the top and it feels like you’re sliding into the ocean!
The Beach
Brighton beach is pebbled, like a lot of beaches in the UK. When my daughter was tiny, she spent hours stacking and arranging rocks and we didn’t have sand in our car on the way home. The water is also cold, which doesn’t stop some folks from surfing or swimming, but stops me from going past the ankles. If it’s a nice day, paying a few pounds for a deck chair is well worth it. On this trip, we found a giant log to lean against and sat straight on the pebbles while our 8yo drew in the one tiny patch of sand.
Royal Pavillion
Brighton Museums aptly describes this as “a seaside pleasure palace for King George IV, this historic house mixes Regency grandeur with the visual style of India and China.” It’s a bit of a head-scratcher, really, because the house does not look like it belongs on the British seaside. Touring it wasn’t in the budget this trip, but we have been inside before and it is really interesting. You can walk through the gardens for free, which we did to enjoy the flowers and grounds.
Mind the Seagulls
The first time I visited Brighton, a seagull swooped down and took the last of my sandwich from my hand. I wasn’t even on the beach. With the knowledge, of their lack of shame, we thought we were being extra careful. I have documented my love of British beach donuts before. So, you can imagine how disappointed we were when a seagull stole one this time! My husband was shielding it with one hand, but a crafty gull surprised him from behind. We actually got a Christmas ornament to document the experience. There was a whole series for sale of seagulls stealing food!
Shopping
The Lanes are a maze of streets with high street brands, independent shops, and quirky restaurants. Some of these areas date back to the 1500s. My personal favorite is The Duck House which exclusively sells rubber ducks. I ended up buying the Rosie the Riveter, having had a mild obsession with the You Can Do It since early in my historian career. I bought too much chocolate at Montezuma, but I found room for an amazing mocha at Be Chocolat. It’s basically rich drinking chocolate with espresso.
Hove Beach Huts
The walk from Brighton to Hove takes a while (there is also a bus). We passed the i360 viewing tower and stopped at some cute shops (including one with two full walls of tea). The huts on Hove beach are colorful and iconic. Although people don’t live in them, the tiny sheds cost a pretty penny and serve as a base for a day at the beach. They are fun to look at.
And More
There’s loads more to do, of course. So, if you’re up for a quirky beach town, I highly recommend Brighton. “Between downs and sea, we flourish.” (Brighton motto)
